Dmitri Matheny

The Shinjuku District in Ancient Times, Tokyo, JAPAN

The Shinjuku District Today, Tokyo, JAPAN

Monk working at KOSHOJI.

Green Tea Ritual on Uji River Uji, JAPAN

Butsudan of KOSHOJI Uji, JAPAN

Bell Windows of BYODO-IN Uji, JAPAN

BYODO-IN Uji, JAPAN

Phoenix Hall, BYODO-IN, Uji, JAPAN

Chinese-style gate at the perimeter of KOSHOJI

Bell windows of BYODO-IN
Uji, JAPAN

Phoenix ornaments adorn the roof of BYODO-IN
Uji, JAPAN

Dogen Stele at KOSHOJI Uji, JAPAN

Portrait of Dogen Zenji

BYODO-IN with Sakura Uji, JAPAN

This is the Daikokuten statue at KOSHOJI. Daiko is a "god of good fortune," associated with trade and the accumulation of wealth. For good fortune in business, it is customary to light incense at his small altar.

The original manuscript of Dogen's Shobogenzo.

The approach, from the top of Kotozawa, toward the Chinese gate at KOSHOJI.

At KOSHOJI, a view of the Hondo from within the temple grounds.

An antique Japanese wood block print of KOSHOJI.

Diagonal view of the Chinese-style entry gate at KOSHOJI.

The Soto Zen monks who live and work at KOSHOJI keep the landscape well-manicured.

I love the wabi-sabi qualities of this stone walkway.

The Abbot of ZUIHO-IN, Masa's friend and teacher, sat with us and explained the aesthetics of his rock garden.

Uji Bridge Uji, JAPAN

Uji River

Of all the beautiful temples and shrines I've seen in Japan, my favorite is KOSHOJI, a small Soto Zen temple in Uji.

Uji is a beautiful little town just south of Kyoto—only 20 minutes by train from Kyoto station—situated along the Uji-gawa river.

The understated approach to KOSHOJI, unlike the grand entrances of most temples in Japan, is nestled discretely into the riverside foliage, so modest you might miss it.

The slope between the riverside and the temple is called "Kotozaka," so named for the musical sounds that emanate from a small brook beside the path. The arching trees—a thicket of cherry, kerria, azalea, and maple— form a dense canopy overhead that changes colors with the seasons.

At the top of the hill is a white Chinese-style gate at the formal perimeter of the temple grounds.

On the hillside behind the temple is a beautiful cemetary.

Across the river from KOSHOJI is BYODO-IN. The historic temple, with its beautiful Amida (Phoenix) Hall built in 1053, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This is the same iconic temple featured on the 10 yen coin.

Inside the Phoenix Hall is a large statue of AMIDA Buddha (Amitabha). He is surrounded by dozens of Bodhisattvas who are dancing, playing instruments, and floating on clouds to represent the Pure Land school of Buddhism.

This is the giant temple bell at BYODO-IN.

Fushimi Inari Path
Kyoto, JAPAN

Bridge over the Uji River, Uji, JAPAN

Amano Pagoda

Hot coffee and Asahi beer from vending machines on the street

Daigoji Pagoda

Architectural detail from roof of Daitokuji

Great Wave by Hokusai

Pickled squid tentacles, Kyoto, JAPAN

Plastic food display in restaurant windows

Ultraman

Stone Jizo Statues

The Great Buddha
Kamakura, JAPAN

Daibutsu

Kasuga Lantern Shrine
Nara, JAPAN

Stone Lanterns at Kasuga Lantern Shrine, Nara, JAPAN

The sacred deer, Nara, JAPAN

Temple Gate Guardian Nara, JAPAN

Flanking Buddha, Todaiji, Nara, JAPAN

The incense cauldron at Todaiji, Nara, JAPAN

Kannon at Todaiji, Nara, JAPAN

Todaiji, Nara, JAPAN

Flying or falling? I love this sculpture, called "Man and Pegasus," at the Open Air Museum in Hakone, JAPAN.

Bamboo Fence

Beautiful Stonework

Matcha

This statue next to the Uji bridge commemorates the Tale of Genji, an important work of Japanese literature, the final chapters of which are set in Uji.

Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (1358–1408) promoted cultivation of green tea in the Uji area. Since that time Uji has been an important production and distribution center of superior quality green tea. Tsuen tea has been served since 1160 and is still sold in what is the oldest tea shop in Japan, and possibly the world—the Tsuen tea shop.

Tea shop, Uji, JAPAN

Genmaicha Green Tea

Shinto Shrine

Tenmangu Shinto Shrine

Nanzenji

Aqueduct at Nanzenji

Nanzenji

Golden pavilion

Silver pavilion

Apollo Plus Restaurant
Kyoto, JAPAN

Conveyor Belt Sushi Restaurant
Tokyo, JAPAN

Interior Courtyard Garden, Ishihara Ryokan , Kyoto, JAPAN

Daitokuji

Daitokuji Interior

Bedtime at Ishihara Ryokan, Kyoto, JAPAN

Ishihara, Kyoto, JAPAN

I studied sumi-e painting one afternoon at the Kyoto Art Center

Masa Fujiwara was our guide and interpreter. He is a professional architect and student of the tea ceremony. His wife, Sarah Brayer, is a noted visual artist whose studio is in Kyoto.

Nishiki Market

Bamboo Path

Philosopher's Walk, Kyoto, JAPAN

Teramachi Market, Kyoto, JAPAN

Rock garden
Kyoto, JAPAN

Ryoanji

Masa invited his friend, the abbot of Zuihoin [a beautiful subtemple of Daitokoji in Kyoto], to instruct us in Rinzai Zen. He sat with us on these wooden steps and told us about the aesthetics of the rock garden.